Review: Ace & Jig Marie Dress in Cabaret

One of the standout Ace & Jig pieces this season is the Marie Dress in Cabaret (shown above in XS), and it's pretty clear why. I called this one early on as being the Oxblood Gallery Dress of this season, but now that I've tried it on, I'm not so sure...

Style Description: A short-sleeved longer midi dress with a tiered skirt, crew neckline, and a smocked elastic panel down the back for a more flexible fit. 

Size/Fit: True to size to a bit large on top. I'm wearing an XS above and found it a bit loose around the bust. However, there were some major issues around the neckline for me. (See "Notables" below for important info)

Neckline: Crewneck. The smocking in the back does not extend to the neckline, so it is not stretchy. (See "Notables" below for important info)

Length: In between a midi & maxi length on most, but a true maxi on me (I'm 4' 11"), with the hem just barely skimming the ground when I'm wearing flats. Several inches longer than most Ace & Jig midi dress styles, e.g. the Cliff, Gallery, Laurel, etc. This makes it impractical for me without altering or belting, but that wouldn't be the case with most.

Closures: None. Slips on over the head. 

Pockets: Yes! 

Notables: Look out for too-small neckholes! I've had the golden opportunity to try on quite a few of these dresses at local retailers, and I've generally been finding the neckhole too small for my normal-sized head to pass through, much like the issue with some of the Artemis Dresses from Fall 2015.

• Of the three XS's I've tried, I could only get my head through one of them (33% success rate). 
• Of the three S's I've tried, I was able to get my head through only two (67% success rate). 
• I tried on an M at only at one store (A. Cheng), because both the XS and S were too small in the neck for my head to fit, but the rest of the dress was then too big, of course. Presumably, the neckholes are bigger with larger sizes, so I imagine it's less likely to be a problem if you wear a larger size. 

Overall Thoughts: When photos of Fall finally came out, this dress was the piece I was most excited about, but as more information surfaced, I had a few concerns:

• I was initially wary of the tiered skirt, as it looked potentially lumpy where the tiers joined in the lookbook photos, but haven't found that to be an issue with the pieces I've tried on in person. 
• I'm still not a fan of the aesthetics of the smocked back panel, since it's the part I least like about the Soiree Dress from Spring 2017. 
• Aesthetics aside, the designs with smocking generally seem to have more sizing issues, because the areas around the smocking don't stretch and end up being the sizing constraint. I imagine the pattern designers have more perceived sizing flexibility when designing with smocking in mind, which can result in issues such as the below:
• In the case of the Marie Dress, the constraint becomes the non-stretchy neckhole, which likely varies by just a crucial inch or so across dresses, but can nonetheless render a dress literally unwearable.
• In the Soiree Dresses, the non-stretchy waist was the constraint, and I had to size up to an S vs. my usual XS because the waist was too small in the XS to slip over my shoulders. 
• The length is definitely a chief concern for me, and still is, as it would require a trip to the tailor to be made wearable. I would personally raise it an inch or two at the waist, so that it's closer to my natural waist, and wear with heels. 
• This dress in this textile is widely stocked (guess everyone else thought it would be the Oxblood Gallery too!), so I'm personally going to be waiting for a sale in order to fit shortening and neckline widening into the budget. 

Rating: Recommended with Strong Reservations

Where to Buy Online:
Matches - Free shipping to the US with code USAFREE

Accompany
Ace & Jig Webstore
Nine Streets
Life:Curated
Covet & Lou
Mayer Wasner
Phoenix General
Mabo
Mira Mira
Le Souk Le Souk
Owens & Co.
Grethen House

Have you tried the Marie Dress in any textiles? What do you think? Be sure to take a look at my other reviews of Ace & Jig pieces and textiles, too!